Delhi: A study in contrasts

As I sit here in the Fateh Bagh Palace in Ranakpur (more on that later), I am reminded that the world really is quite small. Why? Well because I am watching classic 90210 episodes of course. Nothing says Americanization quite like 90210 reruns.

We landed in Delhi a few days back after about 24 hours of traveling.  The flight to Delhi was fairly pleasant. We were in Continental’s BusinessFirst, and while I wasn’t really able to sleep on the 15 hour flight, some old movies, of both Bollywood and Hollywood origins, made the time pass pleasantly enough.  I also learned that I am almost completely incapable of controlling my laughter at the sight of Ricky Gervais. Especially on a plane.

As for Delhi itself, I can say a couple of things about it. It is very wealthy. And it is very poor. We stayed at the opulent Imperial Hotel, an oasis of serenity and service amongst the busy streets of the New Delhi Connaught Place district. As for the rest of Delhi, let’s just say overwhelming is the first and best word.  The streets were packed with people of every sort.  Beggars, many of whom were children of just a few years, harangued us as we were easy targets. There were somewhat outrageous attempts as well; a number of small kids did cartwheels in the middle of the street. Women with infants on their hips slammed on the car windows.

In many ways it is remarkable that India has not gone the way of Pakistan, their democracy is still quite strong.  The demographics are quite similar in everything except the religious breakdown. Poverty levels are only marginally better in India than Pakistan, yet there has been only a smattering of homegrown rebel and terrorist groups. Sure, some Hindu nationalists are pressing for war with Pakistan, yet for the most part they are doing it within the context of the state. The democracy might be messy at times, but it is reassuring in this region to see democracy thrive. The general elections are scheduled to occur while we are here, and there are campaign posters everywhere. Sonia Gandhi’s face is plastered in every available nook and cranny in Delhi, but it is obviously skewed to wealthier, and thus more likely voters. You can take the political nerd away from his politics, but you can’t take the politics away from the political nerd.  

We did manage to see a few sights in Delhi, the Jama Masjid (above), a stunning sandstone mosque and Humayan’s Tomb(left), a precursor to the Taj Mahal in architecture and sentiment. Unfortunately due to language barriers, we missed Old Delhi’s Red Fort and a few other notable sights, but thruthfully, the hubub to reach them did deter us a bit.

We also made a stop at the Rajghat, the location of Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes. Gandhi, of course, is everywhere in this country. Not only does he hold the places in Indian hearts that we Americans have for MLK, but also George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. Together with Nehru and Mohammed Ali Jinnah, who eventually became the father of Pakistan, Gandhi was the soul of the Indian independence movement. While Nehru’s importance was profound, it is Gandhi that is at heart of this nation. He is as much a spiritual figure as a political one now. But I suppose the same could be said of MLK.

All in all, I can't say that Delhi was really something to repeat.  It is a city that is full of life, but it is also so full of poverty and desperation that it can be seen everywhere you look.  Yet this is a city that is changing rapidly, and who knows what it will look like in 20 years.

The next day, we were breaking camp from the plush Imperial and were on to Udaipur.  That will appear soon in this very spot…